The Black Tusk of Garibaldi
Iola Knight 

Prominent on the northern skyline from Sea to Sky Highway south of Squamish and from Howe Sound on ferries is Mt. Garibaldi and on its left, is a black spike named Black Tusk.  First ascent of this peak was by William J. Gray and party in 1912 during the first summer camp of the BCMC, held in Black Tusk Meadows.  Gray was enthusiastic about this scenic mountain area; he blazed a trail from juncture of Rubble Creek and Cheakamus River to the meadows.  It is not certain whether this trail followed up The Barrier route or on flank of Black Tusk massif, where later a packhorse trail was developed.

 This era was an exciting time for mountain exploration.  1910, BCMC with ACC investigated the southern region of Garibaldi area.  There was the 32 Km (20 miles) Pemberton Trail from Squamish to Pemberton developed and long used by the First Nations peoples of this region.  Alex and Myrtle Phillip followed this route in 1911 to their paradise at Alta Lake.  It took two days travel to these areas, first by Union Steamship from Vancouver to Squamish, then the trek to Daisy Lake, trailhead to Black Tusk area.  In 1910, Howe Sound &Northern RR constructed 9 miles track north of Squamish.  Pacific Great Eastern (later BC Rail) incorporated in 1912, took over HS&N and built track to Daisy Lake.  This greatly facilitated access to Black Tusk area.  By 1915 the rail line had been completed from Squamish to Chasm on Fraser River.

Since 1912 hikers and mountaineers have travelled to this area in heart of Coast Mountains so close to metropolis of Vancouver.  Geologists and botanists were attracted for its uniqueness.  UBC professor Dr. E. M. Burwash was among the first geologists.  Circa 1937 Bill Mathews (Dr. W. H. Mathews) examined the area extensively and studied it intensely.  Without going into great detail, Black Tusk and its companion Table Mt. were formed in Miocene or Pliocene times and are remains of volcanoes which have been eroded to their roots, leaving only a few of original lava flows and the core itself.  The physiographic history of the area over eons of time included three major land uplifts.  Following the last uplift, two huge eras of glaciations occurred with an interglacial period between them.  The glaciers that still cover sides of some peaks are remains of second ice sheet.  And, Bill mentions in 1937,“records show that they are now receding with rapidly increasing acceleration.” As an aside note – Bill was 19 when he published this article in Canadian Alpine Journal.

Since 1912 hikers and mountaineers have travelled to this area in heart of Coast Mountains so close to metropolis of Vancouver.  Geologists and botanists were attracted for its uniqueness.  UBC professor Dr. E. M. Burwash was among the first geologists.  Circa 1937 Bill Mathews (Dr. W. H. Mathews) examined the area extensively and studied it intensely.  Without going into great detail, Black Tusk and its companion Table Mt. were formed in Miocene or Pliocene times and are remains of volcanoes which have been eroded to their roots, leaving only a few of original lava flows and the core itself.  The physiographic history of the area over eons of time included three major land uplifts.  Following the last uplift, two huge eras of glaciations occurred with an interglacial period between them.  The glaciers that still cover sides of some peaks are remains of second ice sheet.  And, Bill mentions in 1937,“records show that they are now receding with rapidly increasing acceleration.” As an aside note – Bill was 19 when he published this article in Canadian Alpine Journal.

 Folks interested in the botany of Black Tusk also came to the Meadows in 1912.  Specifically, John Davidson, Provincial Botanist.  John came to Vancouver in 1911 from Glasgow with the directive to identify the botany of the many climatic zones in B.C.  He considered Garibaldi region a large outdoor classroom where he spent many summers with BCMC and Vancouver Natural History Society, which he helped found in 1918 with Charles F. Connor.  Tad Harper Letson’s father was in the area in 1916 when he hiked up Panorama Ridge and took the accompanying panorama using a Kodak bellows camera. 

Tad said of the picture, “Dad must have hiked in and up, took the photo then returned to join the army.” (WW 1)

The entire Garibaldi area caught notice of provincial government in 1920’s, and it was dedicated as Garibaldi Provincial Park in 1926.  A topographical study was completed in 1927, with their publication of a 4x8 foot blueprint map as guide for hikers & climbers – cost $1.

Hiking and mountaineering in the area became a favoured activity.  PGE rail line was located across the Cheakamus River from Daisy Lake; it was here around “Garibaldi” Station a small community developed. 

 The trip from Vancouver into the meadows still required two days.  Near the station, a lodge close to another small lake, Lucille Lake, was built to service arrivals from Vancouver.  1940’s, this lodge was called McDonald.  They had a telephone – it was indeed needed.  The train was often late thus causing travellers to miss Union boat at Squamish.   

Logging industry was also active in the valley with logs moved to mills at Squamish.  With logging, men referred to as gypo loggers came to clear a cut-block of debris.  This was often followed with a controlled burn to encourage new growth.  To augment their income, they acquired packhorses to take peoples belongings up to the meadows.  They also set up portable tent camps.  George Wallis set up his h/q near Mimulus Creek, while Bert Lamb set up in center of meadows beside the trail.

1930’s, a small log cabin was constructed in lower meadows called L.D. Taylor Cabin for a mayor of Vancouver.  He believed there was sufficient water and head for hydro generation unit for City of Vancouver.  Engineers working on this project built the cabin and worked from it.  The project was abandoned when it was found that The Barrier was unsafe.  The cabin remained and was used by groups, especially UBC VOC in winter & spring trips. Later ACC renovated it and is also used by park rangers.

Up to 1942, the meadows were a summer destination. Christmas that year, the first winter climb into meadows and first winter ascent of Black Tusk took place by six UBC students members of Varsity Outdoor Club. For years following this trip, a winter foray to the area became an annual event.  Women first joined winter trips in 1944.  This organization was, and still is, active mountaineers in the area – with post-exam spring jaunts, autumn trips as well as those at Christmas. Autumn trips are made by students in Vancouver School Trek Program.

 L. D. Taylor’s concept may have failed, but 1946, B.C. Hydro used Daisy Lake and part of valley north as reservoir for the Daisy Lake power development and the first long distance power lines became evident.  For this development a tote road was constructed to Squamish.  1950, there was thrust to connect Squamish to Vancouver.  The first connection was B.C. Rail that had taken over PGE in order to complete this project.  Road   connection from Squamish to Daisy Lake was improved.   1957, highway connection to Vancouver was accomplished.  Now, one could drive from Vancouver to trailhead; hike to meadows and return same day.  And hikers indeed have made use of this day trip.